Tempting kebabs, fragrant biryani, and airy, ethereal desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has forever been a food lovers' paradise, with locals and visitors equally swearing by its remarkable cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
Recently, UNESCO recognised it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – placing it on a prestigious roster of world cities and sparking hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's sublime food. With this designation, it becomes part of a international community of cities urban centers across more than 100 countries committed to promoting "artistic expression as a key factor of development that sustains urban life".
The recognition "demonstrates its deep-rooted gastronomic legacy and vibrant culinary scene," as noted by a official from UNESCO's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to find a place in this highly sought-after list of 70 cities around the world.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The honor for this historic city comes as little surprise to its locals or passionate food lovers. Many share the sentiment that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO recognition, this beloved, bustling, and eclectic city – the capital of India's largest state – is at last in the spotlight for what has perennially defined its heart: an immense love for food.
"'The day's menu, how will it be cooked' is a constant conversation from waking up until night in many homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are often assessed by the standard of food that emerges from your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The City of the Nawabs – as it's popularly called after its historic opulent Muslim rulers – is noted for its tender kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were conceived, perfected, and raised to extraordinary levels in their imperial kitchens.
These royal kitchens were hubs of culinary innovations, blending Persian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were fashioned. The story goes that the galouti kebab was created to cater to an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His chefs minced the meat with raw papaya, saffron, and spices and made it so soft that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the most significant contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, leisurely heat, with the container's cover securely closed with a flour paste.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
Besides the obvious kebabs and biryani, the cooks also built up a vast array of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local Baniya community's cuisine doesn't just showcases fresh harvests but also offers the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Nearly on countless corners, there are small establishments and kiosks – hidden gems that are wildly favored by the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, huge crowds start assembling from 5 am at a renowned tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, served in clay glasses, along with pillowy soft buns covered in hand-churned white butter.
To start the day, one can visit a no-frills joint operating in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was founded, the place is still highly popular for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also presents unique treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert savored in the winter. The process of making it is precise and involved. The cook hand-churns the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its incredible frothy texture.
On cold mornings, street vendors can be seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Some but express concern that their children are unwilling to master the craft.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's immense food legacy places it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, however, will materialize only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – crafted by generational food businesses, from humble street carts to lively restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is believed, will inspire more people globally to learn these narratives and experience the city to delight in the culinary delights of Lucknow.
